A three-eighths inch (9. 525mm) socket with wrench extension Sockets in 19mm (three-quarter inch), 17mm (0. 686-0. 669/eleven-sixteenths inch) 15mm (0. 591-0. 625/five-eighths inch) Allen wrenches in 4mm (0. 15748 inch), 5mm (0. 19685 inch), 6mm (0. 23622 inch), 8mm (0. 31496 inch)[1] X Research source Open-end wrench in 15mm (0. 591 inch) or an adjustable wrench Wire cutters or scissors Grease Phillips and flat-blade screwdriver Box cutter or knife Air pump Hammer and rubber mallet PVC pipe or old headset cup
Bike frame Saddle (the seat) and seat post Handlebars and grips Front fork (the Y-shaped part that attaches to the front wheels and handlebars) Front brakes, rear brakes, and cables Reflectors Front and rear wheel assemblies and tires Chain Peddles Additional box or bag of small parts and hardware
Hold the fork upright so that the bottom of the forks are facing the ground. It’s a common mistake to damage forks during installation, so if you place the forks on the ground, rest them in old shoes or on a mat to protect them. Place the crown race over the steering tube and set it firmly at the base of the steering tube. Crown race installation method A: Since you don’t want to damage the crown race during installation, there are two ways you can put it on without damaging it. The first is to place an old headset cup (the cup-shaped component that makes up part of the headset) over the crown race. Hammer evenly around the headset cup to secure the crown race beneath in place without damaging it. [2] X Research source Crown race installation method B: Slide a PVC pipe of the proper diameter over top of the steering tube and rest it on top of the crown race. Make sure the pipe is longer than the steering tube. Now, hammer the top of the pipe until the crown race is secure in place. [3] X Research source
For integrated headsets, bearings are universal, so you don’t need to worry about which one goes on top or on the bottom. [4] X Research source
The gyro will slide over the spacers (if you’re using them), the bearing, and the cup, and sit on the head tube where it meets the frame. The gyro top plate will sit on top of the spacers if you’re using them; otherwise, it will sit on top of the headset cup.
Grease the compression bolt (the threaded bolt that screws in and keeps the stem attached to the steering tube), and insert it into the hole in the stem. Twist it into place or tighten it on with the appropriate Allen wrench. Tighten the bolts that you loosened on the stem, gradually tightening one then the other so they are evenly and snugly attached. [5] X Research source
Place the body of the stem on the ground groove up. Rest the handlebars into the groove. Replace the face plate so that it wedges the handlebar in between the two stem pieces, and use the bolts to fasten the face plate back to the body of the stem. Tighten the bolts in an X pattern, applying even pressure to each bolt. [6] X Research source
If you installed the stem on the handlebars separately, now attach the assembly to the rest of the bike. Position the handlebars and stem onto the steering tube. Grease the compression bolt and insert it. Twist it into place or fasten it with an Allen wrench. [7] X Research source Install your gyro at this time if you are using one.
Your seat doesn’t have to be in the perfect position right now, and you can always adjust it later on. But do make sure the maximum height line is below the seat tube, otherwise you risk damaging the stem.
Bike stands can run you well over $100, but if you work on your bike often, you will help prevent strain on your back and knees by investing in one.
Insert the spindle into the right-side crank arm by matching up the splines (grooves) and pushing the spindle in. Screw in the bolt until it won’t twist any more. Slide the sprocket down the spindle, position it on the crank arm, and attach it with the sprocket bolt. [9] X Research source Depending on the type of crank you’re using, you may have to put the sprocket on first, and then slide the spindle through and fasten it. [10] X Research source
Check that both crank arms have approximately the same amount of clearance between them and the frame. [12] X Research source If the clearance isn’t the same, you can adjust one of the crank arms by adding or removing spacers.
Look for an “L” and “R” on your peddles for guidance about which one’s for the left and right side. The peddle on the right will tighten if you turn the wrench clockwise, but the peddle on the left will tighten counter-clockwise, which is the opposite of a regular bolt. [13] X Research source
To avoid a crooked wheel, tighten each nut a little at a time, as this will help keep the wheel centered. If you’re installing pegs, make sure you do this before putting on the axle nuts. Pegs are short metal tubes that extend out from the wheel and act as foot holds for when you’re doing tricks. It’s best to start with the front wheel installation because this will help keep the bike balanced as you work. [14] X Research source
Butting the two ends of the chain together. Sliding a master link (the open-faced link that can be connected to attach the chain ends) through each chain end to join them. Pressing a plate around the two pins of the master link. Sliding the clip over top of the plate and snapping it into place. Use a flat-head screwdriver to snap it in place if necessary.
Straighten out the wheel and tighten the axle nut or peg on the drive side. [16] X Research source Then, snug up each side evenly until the pegs or axle nuts are on properly.
Make sure the stem and front tire are aligned before tightening your bolts.
Try sliding the levers closer or farther apart to separate your hands more or bring them closer together. You can also rotate the levers on the handles to see how you like them oriented.
Make sure you install the proper brake arms on the proper side of the bike.
Make sure the cable isn’t so tight that it’s wrapped tightly around the fork, but also not so loose that it will rub against the tire.
As you adjust the tension, continue testing the brakes to ensure that they are applying pressure evenly.
Make sure the brake pad isn’t actually touching the rim; you want it about one mm (0. 04 inch) away from the rim.
